On a winter hike, I dreamed of for years. Our friends, who went hiking in the winter with his tourist club back in the 80-ies. much talked about overnight stays by the fire, a home-made gear, in general, infect us an idea. But there was no time, the company, winter was not the same. Winter 2009/10 was "the one that should be."
trekking in Kenozerye called us Stas. He walked with his family - his wife and 12-year-old son, has been Nastia, who has decided to go to hike without a child. Then on the track, I often heard from her: "How good that I left Fyodor home!" And indeed, on a 40-degree frost nobody expected.
Stas took the lead in organizing the campaign and began to negotiate with the administration Kenozero National Park, which was not very simply, because the post office there came the proposal to use some standard routes. Somehow managed to negotiate, we bought tickets and took the skis from our friends. I Andrew invited to ride on them before leaving, because they were great army skis are quite old, but the case is not as pictured.
already on road to the station remembered that you forgot a thermos. We bought one at Plesetsk, and he became our best thermos (Biostall).
Before the National Park arrived without incident (gazelle cost P 7000). However, before loading seen next group. They were baumantsy. At the same jackets with plastic alpine skiing, for me they are terrified after the events a year ago, which killed almost the entire group. Of course, baumantsy themselves nothing to do with, just too much a reminder of how dangerous can be a hike. Then our group in the administration of the park before leaving said that the group returned from a hike with chilblains. I have not seen, but was very sorry guys.
Despite the fact that the park we arrived in the evening (go about 3 hours), the "Buran" We met some military (the guys say that MChSovets) to register us.
steel items to pronounce him the route, and it became clear that we've got to beat. Instead, most bottlenecks need to cross the lake in the center. It turned out that in narrow places for such strong that the ice was too thin. We looked at the map, the lake is shaped like a starfish. Somewhere fell the river where the water-stood superseded by ice and snow.
entrance to the park was worth 250 rubles. from the nose, in addition had to pay for parking from 70 to 150 rubles. each. Stand on non-equipped parking and fell Sushin we had no right. It was assumed that the sites will napileny firewood.
Ivan (MChSovets) was marked on a map where the safest go, recommended stopping at sites where newly imported wood. Availability of firewood promised to check and trace, not whether we wood sawing (for which assumed a heavy fine).
On the street we waited for the driver, who agreed to throw to first parking lot. Initially thought to stand outside the park, but then still decided to go in the opposite direction to the parking lot, and immediately thereby violated the schedule of nights on parking. However, these violations were part Park, they learned too late.
helping to unload our backpacks on the road and skiing, the driver muttered to himself: "Yes, I probably would not go in cold, snow and darkness. " And then we waited for the first surprise. I put shoes in shoe covers ("Equipment") to mount and could not snap. When all is it possible, I felt like his legs almost turns inside out of a tight spring. Somehow I doshlepala before the Congress in the woods and found floundering in the snow Andrew: outweighed three liters of wine, which were taken for New Year's mulled wine.
ahead in the forest flickers lanterns. It turned out that in the dark Petya fell from a bridge into the creek. True, except the pants and the edge of the backpack does not wet, but the disguise, it still had the cold.
Parking for Sudorskoy Lakhta was, like all equipped with: a canopy over the table, bonfire, trash, toilet, wood (usually a hefty lumps, which are not that hard to crack, but even embrace).
Stas excitement for Petka threw almost the entire complex piece into a fire. Andrei came off the two rings on the ski poles: rotted for prescription of years leather bindings. One ring, we have not found it. Minor damage was accompanied us the entire trip: a Petka broke a plastic stick, in this case we had a spare. First started to delaminate at the toe Skiing with Andrew, then me. At Stas they too were of wood, but more reliable than ours, and most importantly, proven. His wife Tatiana was on the plastic, Petka, too. And Nastia were running (I had thought that we will suffer on the ice skate as bad, but there so much snow! "). The fact that almost all of the ground thoroughly sling mount can be does not even mention it.
we got up at 8 or 9, went out after 3 hours, and so often walked in the twilight.
On the first day, December 31, managed to get quite a few. On the morning of Andrew screwdriver loosened my bindings, and you can go. But not for long - here and there stood the water.
All the time we had to go on the lake. Another house I imagined how ice cracking under me, and I, along with skis and a backpack walking on the bottom. This idea is scrolled in the head again and again, and tsepeneli hands in horror.
soon as we stepped on ice in the first day, despite the freezing cold (it was about -15 °), the water began to act. Ice is pressed under a lot of snow, and water was seeping through the invisible cracks. Skiing adhere to the soaked snow, and clean off those pounds was impossible. Wooden skis had to be thawed and dried on a fire. Speed was very low, but we walked slowly forward, stopping to rest. Stas suggested a return to the road, to reach out and make Vershinino Radialka. But no one supported it. Nobody wanted to stand in the township. For me it meant to finish a hike, do not start it.
Around 3:00 we went to the houses. One stood unfinished, and the other was homely. Small, but with the stove. Like at first bite and move on, but decided to stay to celebrate the New Year. What
it was light the stove - it is not clear. So we decided to dump the dry pine. The feeling was such that we bring down relict palms in the greenhouse botanical garden. Near revealed nadrublennye pine, probably in the autumn someone made a notch to the spring of glass resin, and can be freely cut down a tree. We carefully picked all branches, but no one came to us to check.
When heat the oven, could dry up Petya's belongings and thaw out the banks with caviar and pineapple. Seems to have been more olives. In one fell swoop get rid of all specialties. I was dragging the toy is not a Christmas tree, we decorate them our lodge and a bunch of fir branches. Useful ikeevskie candles. Blown by the wind on the street, they regularly covered the house.
evening we found the trail from the "Buran" and make sure that that goes along the shore. According to him, and decided to go the next day. Stas frightened us tales, as one of the campaigns around the moon appeared halo, and after 2-3 days the temperature dropped to -40 C. When we got mull on fire, just noticed the characteristic halo. And we have long rubbed his eyes, no could not believe it: that's just recently on the moon was vyscherblina, and now it's not. Already home after a hike, I learned that it was a lunar eclipse.
The next day was very reluctant to get up and go somewhere. We woke Nastya Tanya, who slept in a tent. At breakfast, put forward slogan: Reaching Pesyan! - Cape, to whom did not have time to get to the previous day.
On the road met another house, also unlocked, but did not stop, it was necessary to go forward, we are behind schedule. Go try the trails on the map of the route. Crossing the wide part of the lake with an island in the middle, we moved to a dense portion of the snow, only at the beginning had bypass wormwood. If you do not walk in the tracks, you can keep skiing dry. We tried to keep your distance, but I'm always listening for whether the ice is cracking. But apart from the loud squeak of snow all was quiet. There was not even the wind. Dressed, we were easy, down jackets and warm pants for the camp was removed in a backpack. But the extra fliski yet not enough, and most importantly, there was no cap, without which it was cold to sleep.
Here is a list of things that I took with me: thermal underwear, tights, fliska, hoodie, sport.kostyum that night, I changed to sinteponovye pants and a thin short down jacket, a strip of fleece on his head, a large set of socks and mittens, Chuni for the camp. When the temperature has taken a beating, all were competing on who wears more: fliska, fliska, polarka, polarka, polarka, fliska.
Until the next parking lot got in the early twilight. In the evening, sitting in a large bonfire. I really wanted to sing, and guitars were not. Stas Vizbor began, we picked up Nastia Tretyakov, and Andrew got "ace of trumps - began quoting Brodsky. For symmetry in meditative silence, dispersed their tents. Rose blizzard. Vershinino lights on the other side hidden veil. "Missing Yershalaim - great city, as if there existed in the world."
Apart обычной пенки у меня была еще одна тонкая. Когда морозы стали сильнее, я подкладывала еще две сидушки под спальник, а потом и синтепоновые штаны. Снизу тянуло cold. Andrew bypassing one foam and sinteponovymi pants, and I gave fleece. Of course, they were better than my tights. I wrapped his feet in his jacket. First tried to hide in Chunya, but their rubber soles in the cold as if turned to stone. The legs did not want to keep warm. The main thing was to sleep.
The next morning was overcast, but the snow has stopped. Came back late. First protropili open area, had tea with askorbinku. Stas caught a cold the day before and could only move forward. At Bear Island saw the first chapel. Decided to cut short section through the bay, but the ice by Stas became rapidly covered with water. He managed to jump aside, well, that was close to the shore. After a time we reached the parking lot. Here, clearly someone has been recently: around the traces of the "Buran", firewood neatly stacked. But we had paid for another parking lot, and put camp was still too early. Again, drank tea, and moved. Thirst tormented of all, because we are water extracted from the melting snow (before it was able to recruit in the lake). In the twilight "vlipli. On the map to go was not much, and we trudged ahead with pounds of snow skiing. The trail has become unbearable. Got Finally.
All parking in the snow, wood is not visible. Under the snow lie huge raw lumps. Detach some ice and transported on sleds to the future of the fire. But start a fire with them is simply impossible. Colder. Sky vyzvezdilos. Had again fell Sushin.
Stas left chop wood.
Suddenly, out of darkness came his voice. Rather it, he is not just heard, he cried out: "All is lost, I lost the hatchet, he jumped out of the hands in the snow!»
Frost. Darkness. Silence. And we have no ax. Combed it. But the search for the ax to the fluffy snow is like a needle in a haystack. However, we were lucky. The ax Stas stumbled quite by accident.
has risen moon, and it became even colder. We kept on with snow on all sides by the tent. The only barometer - a bottle of pepper vodka. By the morning of vodka into a sludge. We called the administration of the park. We have with Andrew at 5, the number had return tickets from Plesetsk, and the guys were up to 9 numbers. We had to get out from the island. Do not want to risk: 12-year Petka and simple Stas needed as soon as possible to get into heat. While going, Petya raced down the path here and there. He and Tatiana in shoes not fit extra socks and feet were freezing greatly.
; the feelings, what for so long asserted the Bolsheviks finally happened: the temperature dropped to -40 C. In the administration of the reserve on the phone told us that in Vershinino was -38 C, and hence we have even less. Chopping wood for the morning fire, we lined up, just to keep warm. At night, Andrew threw a 2-3 large block of wood on the fire, so that in the morning We were still warm embers. Otherwise, the wood burning refuse. And here was the second hike difficult moment: get into a cold boots before you enter the route. For struggle with the cold, we derived a simple formula: eat well, dress warmly and go.
Before a hike, I read the book, Bergman, where he advised as to warm hands and feet: delete as low as possible for limb blood flow and wave with large amplitude.
Endow Balaklava and went in the direction of the nearest villages, suddenly able to find at least one living soul. First broke open area, then walked along the island, and once again got on the ice field - could be seen in the distance already houses, from one pipe smoke poured. And here we vplyli the big sagebrush. Stas suggested undo lap belts backpacks and mounting skiing. I looked at Andrew and did not touch anything. He had to go without wasting time. Water was everywhere. Petya sobbed behind me, I asked Stas and Tanya look after him. Became scary, but Andrew had already seen the approximate boundaries of wormwood, and Nastia went there with confident steps. Stas, who returned for Petya wanted to go back. I was ready to panic. Headway it was impossible. It's cold and dangerous. After a while we got on dry land, and then on the road with the pylon on which the travel "Buran".
Only then Nastia said she had frayed strap on the fixture. Got together and cleaned skiing, repaired and started fixing toward domikovlshe. Knocked in the first house. We have opened Vladimir and Natalia. They left a few years ago here in Moscow and now wintered in the village Tyryshkina. On the mountain was another apartment building, but in neighboring Kositsyn, and then - one for many miles. While Natalie gave to drink our tea and cakes, Volodya arranged by telephone with the owner (of Vershinino) the house next door so we could spend the night there. Melted the stove. Of course, the house is not fully warmed up in a sleeping bag even rang the ice, but well it did not go to any comparison with the cold night in tents.
And outside is not warmer. On next day went to see the church in Vidyagino and Tyryshkina. Output from a warm house can not be compared with collecting things in the cold.
evening Volodya put us Andrei in the sleigh, fastened them to the "Buran" and drove the 10 miles in Vershinino. The next day we had a train. And the guys walked around the neighborhood for a day, also back in Vershinino and made out Radialka. Cold by the time completely retreated.
At Burani us rolling from side to side, and wind and snow were killed in all gap. I pulled Balaclava, so that even his eyes were closed. But Volodya's face in the wind, grab, and he stayed on, telling us: here went elk, but here in the autumn saw the bear, and there I almost drove into the water.
In Vershinino Volodya had brought us to the owner of the house where we slept in Tyryshkina, there were at night. The next morning, went to a private owner in Plesetsk. The nearest gas station is located 80 km from the village. The bus broke down and no longer walk. Administration of the park do not care how tourists get to the train.
Then Volodya told me that night on the road from Vershinino lost on the ice sled, but in those places where to put, there and take, so that the sleigh and then found.
House in Moscow at all did not go out of my head this land and people. And in the summer I returned there. But that's another story.
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